Monday, November 26, 2012

Looking back, looking ahead

What's been going on?
There was the Leatherwomen's Round Table Discussion with Toni Solene -Mid Atlantic Leather Woman 2012 - last Monday and this last weekend was the Seattle Men in Leather's Seattle Leather Daddy & Daddy's boy contest. We also had new representatives for the Northwest Leather Sir, leather boy & Community Boot Black appointed for the new year.
Lots of good leather-y news!

This week is the SML Leather Social on Wednesday, and Blood Sweat & Queers is this Saturday at the CSPC.

On 12/13, we'll be hosting the OutWest Leather Night AND stay tuned for the announcement of the first WSMLO fund raiser!

Monday, November 12, 2012

Bootblacking 102

In preparation for any potential bootblack to sit down with their first pair of boots, they should have some basic knowledge and a basic bootblacking starter kit.

Firstly, a potential boot black needs to know the different types of leather you might encounter. There are four main types of leather I'll be focusing on in this start session : (1) high polished boots, (2) satin polish (less shiny) boots, (3) oil tan boots, and (4) apparel leather.
We'll come back to this.

Next off, the essentials for a starter bootblack kit:
  • Dauber Brush (large or small, I like both for different things)
  • Squirt bottle (something with a mist/spray ability)
  • Tooth brush (stiff bristled is best)
  • Lots of old rags/towels for cleaning, drying, etc
  • Nylons (MUST BE USED, new are too scratchy) how you get them used, is up to you
  • Flashlight/headlamp (usefull, but not needed)
  • China pencils (these are wax pencils you can get at an art store for >$1 each, most important colors are white, yellow and red but there are more if you want them)

Those are just the basic tools; you'll also need leather care products, polish, oil and etc...
Saddle soap (used for cleaning leather before polishing)
Glycerin soap (alt for saddle soap; if you choose this it MUST be fragrance, dye & color free)
High shine polish (Kiwi or Lincoln are standards, I use both)
Cream / Satin polish (this is a cream product, I use Meltonian NOTE : you will need a new small dauber FOR EACH COLOR you use)
Oil (I prefer Oubenoff's, but there are other brands we'll get to that)
Apparel Oil (different than oil for boots, I prefer Oubenoff's brand for this also)

OK, so now we've covered the basics of what you need.  Awesome, let's look at the basics of what you need to know to polish a boot.
First of all, you'll want to note how the boot is laced (if your first boot has no laces, you are SPOILED) and I usually use my phone to take a photo of the lacing so I can replicate it when I'm finished. Most people have a preference in their lacings and you want to put things back as you found them, this is just basic niceness for your client. After you've noted the lacing pattern, unlace the boot and take the laces out.
DO NOT LOSE THE LACES, put them around your neck, over your knee, or someplace else where they won't get lost. Once you have the laces out, you'll want to clean them too the easiest way to do this is to wet a rag and run them through it a few times, the moisture and friction will take most dirt off.
Next off, how dirty is the boot? You might need to just use water and a good sturdy towel to get most of the dirt/mud/ick off; once you're down to a managable amount of dirt, you're ready to start boot blacking.

1) You will need to wet your dauber brush AND your soap.
About the soap; I use Saddle Soap the brand doesn't really matter, they're all pretty close to the same but some boot blacks prefer Glycerin soap. I recommend you try both and decide what works best for you.
2) Using your spray bottle dampen (DO NOT SOAK) the boot; then work up a lather on your brush and start cleaning the boots! Go in small areas at first, if you're worried, and use a clean towel to wipe away the water, soap and dirt once you finish a section.
3) Once the first boot is cleaned, clean the second. Using your toothbrush and some soap, clean the top of the sole of the boot running around the base of the leather (commonly referred to as the catwalk by some).
4) Once the boots are clean, then you're going to polish.

We will cover how to polish a boot at a later date.

Bootblacking 101

There are so many classes with this title and this certainly isn't a class but I was asked several times this weekend as to what is the basics of a new bootblack kit and I desperately wanted to compile a decent list of the items and pearls of wisdom for starting out blacking boots.

First off, we'll cover the items you need in your kit.

  • Super glue
  • Saddle soap / Glycerin Soap (if you use glycerin, MUST be un-dyed/-scented)
  • Dauber Brush (Start with a small for boots, a med for small apparel like vests, and a large for pants/coats/chaps)
  • Old toothbrush
  • Water bottle (Trust me on this, get a hair mist bottle from the $1 store)
  • Dish for water (tupperware/plastic bowls are smart)
  • Towels (hand towel or wash clothes to be retired)
  • Black Polish (Kiwi / Lincoln's solid wax or Meltonian creme wax)
  • Boot Oil (I use Oubenoff's LP)
  • Soft cloth rags (old Tshirts cut into 4" x 12" strips are good)
  • Boot brush (small or large - use separate brushes for polish & oil items)
  • Nylons (used, worn in, the older and more worn the better)
  • Head lamp

In answer to common questions, you can get pretty much all the leather care specific items from a cobbler. (I will update this with a list of cobblers I am aware of) Keep in mind that each cobbler will be an independent retailer so there won't be much guarantee of pricing equality - which can be very frustrating.

If you already have the basics but need to further your kit, here's a short list of other items that are great to get once you're up and going.

  • Leather dye (Fiebing's is the brand I am most familiar with)
  • Leather apparel oil (Again, I use Oubenoff's)
  • Brown polish
  • Extra brushes as needed (I like to have 2 small brushes for each leather type I work with, ie: black, brown, neutral wax/creme polishes each get a pair and then I have another pair for all my oil tan items)
  • Nail brush (If that matters)
  • Lots of extra rags

For plastic / clear coat boots; NEVER use a wax or oil on them. Among other issues, it will bead up and look gross plus it can damage the top film on the boot. You want to get a good pure silicone dressing (Pjur or M'Eros - which I think I spelled wrong - are recommended for it) and use sparingly. A little silicone goes a ludicrously long way.
Oh, and don't put wax polish on an oil tan to "make it shiny" - the leather wasn't prepared the same way and while it will last short term, it'll look worse later and it's a bitch to undo. Pardon my French.

And that's at least a starting place. :)